My writing often comes across as pretentious. Ach, no-one reads this stuff, so what do I care?

Wait. This review received 17 votes of approval. Huh.


The truth about food is that protein by itself doesn’t taste of much. Think tofu or industrially raised pork – they’re texture, not much else.

Flavor lives in fat: Consider a beautifully marbled steak or anything fried in duck drippings. While animal fat is tasty, the other (more healthy) place we find flavor is in the plant world. Thai food illustrates this, but not the Americanized Thai takeaway we grab on Saturday nights. I’m talking about the real stuff that’s redolent of lemongrass and basil and curry leaves.

Which is an unlikely but important way to think about breakfast at Sun Garden. The food here stands out because someone in the kitchen completely understands the protein/fat/plant flavor nexus.

People want eggs for breakfast, but eggs by themselves are pretty boring. They beg to be upgraded with with either cheese or ham or something inventive from the garden. A bagel is boiled dough unless you add figs or avocado or bean sprouts or all three. Bacon (lots of fat) is cured wonderment, but if you complement with pepper it rises to a new level.

It’s no wonder that folks rave about this place…they respect our palates.