On the southern side of Hong Kong island is the fishing town of Aberdeen. Here, moored just offshore, you will find the Jumbo Kingdom, an immense agglomeration of floating restaurants, accessed only by boat.

Eating at one of these places is a rite of passage for the new visitor. The restaurants themselves are breathtaking by virtue of their size: table after table on multiple levels. Then there are the menus, almost bafflingly large.

This is how a large population dines out in limited space. Everything is clean and orderly, all the food hot and freshly prepared, and the seafood is eye-opening. If you want to know how a food-obsessed culture really focuses on its victuals, this is a start. These places consist of tables and chairs, big, efficient kitchens, fast waiters and chefs and fresh ingredients. Everything else is secondary. It’s all no-nonsense.

In the best possible way, Yummy House lives in that tradition. All the elements are recognizably related to (at least) Cantonese sensibility. Like the Jumbo Kingdom, the volume is turned slightly towards non-native tourists, meaning that some westernization is evident. But as a dining and eating experience, this is as good a deal as you’ll taste this side of the South China Sea.

Try the sublime braised eggplant and the steamed chinese broccoli.