Again, after many years, the riesling grape beguiled me.
This time in a bottle of Dr Heidmanns Bergweiler QbA 2015.
First the technical part, thanks Wikipedia.
- Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA), or quality wine from a specific region.
- This is wine from one of the 13 wine-growing regions (Anbaugebiete), and the region must be shown on the label. It is a basic level of everyday, mostly inexpensive quaffing wines. The grapes are at a fairly low level of ripeness, with must weights of 51°Oe to 72°Oe. The alcohol content of the wine must be at least 7% by volume, and chaptalization (adding sugar to the unfermented grape juice to boost the final alcohol level, which in no way alters the sweetness) is often used. QbA range from dry to semi-sweet, and the style is often indicated on the label, along with the designation Qualitätswein and the region. Some top-level dry wines are officially QbA although they would qualify as Prädikatswein.
Viscous, strong, spicy, full of fruity nuances, the wonder of the riesling grape continues. Grown about as far north as possible on this planet, the steep shale-y ground in which the vines live gives rise to the most interesting wines.
This one is no exception, especially for the price. The nose is of white peach with some honey and other stone fruits. That changes on the palate to ripe peach, ripe juicy nectarine, nectarine stone, ripe tangerine juice and a fraction of honeycomb as the wine warms. The acids taste of (as the winemaker states) some orange zest, but it all works beautifully together.
Any slate-y minerality is minimal, at best, but that’s fine.
As you’d imagine for a wine that barely sneaks into the medium dry category, it has plenty of sweet notes, but never feels sugary. That taste is the difference between fruit sweet and refined sugar sweet; everyone can tell one from the other without necessarily being able to articulate just why.
In any case, fructose is different from sucrose, but now we’re splitting hairs.
The wine finishes relatively slowly and completely, with no bum notes.
I’m unreservedly enjoying this thing.