Context in wine is easy to miss because of global supply chains. Here I am in Florida drinking a wine fermented from grapes grown in the Nahe region ofGermany, where viticulture dates from at least 1,000 years ago.
It’s riesling, of course. My question is whether I have any business drinking wine made from a grape variety that is so foreign to the climate here. From the mild, northern, minerally slate soils of western Europe to the swamp of south-western Florida, I wonder if the context changes things.
Yes, it does, but in a positive way. This wine is so redolent of Germanic winemaking and riesling in general that it overwhelms its unfamiliar surrounds. In the awful argot of travel writers, it transports one from here, to there, which might even be the tagline of wine in general.
The name of this thing, I think, is designed to help one anticipate a floral nose from the off. I didn’t find it so. Yes, she gave floral notes, but I sensed ripe fruit; mostly peach fuzz, peach and nectarine skin, but nothing overwhelming flowery.
From the inviting nose my palate registered flavors of what I came to call just-ripe stewed nectarines. Imagine slowly cooking fruit with only the sugar they came with, meaning that the acid nicely balanced the natural sweeteners, and you’ll get the idea. .
Yes, she’s sweeter than a lot of wine, but it’s neither cloying nor teeth-chattering. In a way, this inexpensive wine shows how the riesling grape keeps us interested after all this time. She has something for everyone.