No, we’re not in Germany, Hortense.
Riesling again demonstrates why we love her with this edition from WA. Last night I drank the Petals, a perfectly decent supermarket riesling from Nahe, but this…this is not that.
What it is, is a new world riesling. No, it’s not a Jim Barry Clare Valley slice, nor it is something from a small vineyard in the Eden Valley, a couple of hours south. But it is something.
To begin, it’s barely off-dry. It’s like that guy at work you don’t instantly like, but after a few months you find you have much in common. The relationship grows as you figure out how you mesh; something that’s not obvious at the beginning.
It took me a while, but the nose is of a bruised Golden Delicious apple. You remember that smell from school lunches your mother gave you. She snuck in that apple, and being eight years old, you didn’t care how poorly you treated that lunchbox, letting it bang all over the place. At noon you had your sandwich, and then bit into the apple, which was bruised and brown: that’s what we have here. They made a wine that tastes like the bruised bit.
At first I thought it was tennis ball held close to your nose, which actually amounts to the same thing. It’s that kerosene/oxidized fruit set of molecules that keep us wondering whether the damn thing is off or not.
Yep, she’s interesting. The acids are muted, not nearly as obvious as the German side of the family, and the finish reminds me of siphoning gas out of a car – in a good way. I wasn’t stealing it or anything, it was my car. The mysterious part of this is that the fruit has turned, gone from ripe to slightly off, but the wine remains palatable and worth the price of entry.
No, not as straightforward as you’d imagine. With that hydrocarbon undertone and oxidized fruit, on face value you’d tip the thing down the drain, but don’t do that, it’s a waste.