Lucky Goat Chardonnay 2014

Whatever the nose is, I’m intrigued.

Is it guava? Lychee? Durian with the volume turned down?

In part this is why South American wines intrigue me so much; there’s no telling what will come pouring out of the bottle.

Whatever that nose emulates, it doesn’t follow through to the palate, which is possibly even a small disappointment, because if it did, we might have discovered an entirely new sub-branch of chardonnay wine-making.

As it is, the palate is just fine.

This is no juicy chardonnay, it’s way more earthy than that. There’s a certain solidity to the fruit, a kind of yeoman quality that stands unmoved by what it should taste like.

One wonders at the winemakers in Chile. Here they have carefully tended fruit that is unlike that from anywhere else in the world, and they have to make the wine for sale. Of course they understand how Burgundy works, naturally they know California. They also know Australia and Washington. What to do? The bravest make stuff that the fruit tells them to; in keeping with the grapes, weather, people trilogy. Others will move along the emulation line, but these are thankfully few.

It’s embarrassing listening to wine salesmen deride wines like this. Yes, it’s low price, but no, it’s not low quality. If the thinking drinker’s logic is that the best wines ask more questions than they answer, this is a wine to consider.