The Original Martin’s Pickup Chardonnay

In the fine and long-lasting tradition of Australian bulk wine comes this unpolished piece of kit, a chardonnay of unknown wit and thankfully little pretension.

Visually, she has the colour of pee on a hot day; golden-green yellow – startling, actually – with green reflections at the edge. This might be good, or it might be bad.

On the nose I found attractive ripe fruit; pineapple, yellow peach, perhaps some nectarine. So far, so interesting.

Oh, and on the palate, well, not so bad. First sip felt a little woody, too much oak but with a little oxygen, that imbalance disappeared. The oak is still there, but it’s only a fraction overdone, not a complete bollox, and there’s a backbone of acids and unripe fruits.

There’s a hint of viognier-like finish here too, that grapefruit-pith stainless note that sits so well with more hearty foods, like fried chicken or a mild vegetable curry. One almost has the sense that the winemakers spent a lot of energy resisting the urge to go sweet with this thing, and it was the right choice. Sticking with the more savoury style was the right way to go, otherwise there’d be nothing of interest here.

Note: The label is poorly designed and unintelligible. No excuse, mates.