Anakena Pinot Noir Tama Vineyards 2013

If grapes are grown at altitude, you’d expect them to be different from those grown lower in the atmosphere. Think of yourself flying from Houston to Denver; when you arrive, you’d be wise avoiding the step machine for a few days.

Less oxygen, increased solar intensity, and the often forgotten (much) lower humidity are the three big variables. If you’re a grape vine, you’ll adapt to such changes, but it should come as no surprise that when I eventually become wine, I might be distinctive.

So it is with this Chilean glass. Notably not fruity, interestingly dry, subtly peppery, there’s a clear link between Burgundy and this place far, far away. It’s an earthy place, too. Shorn of excess, we find a technically excellent variation of classic pinot.