Pale yellow or straw. Looks like a lightweight riesling…until you take a lungful of the aroma. Then it’s POW!
Tangerine juice, tangerine zest to begin, which implies either too sweet or too zesty, but it’s neither. That’s the effect of (I guess at this point) acids and minerality. Truly mouth-watering.
However the sweet aromas are counteracted, there are additional complex notes here. Some secondary citrus, perhaps sweet grapefruit, which is not really sweet at all. That actually makes sense.
Also, as a kind of overarching reflection of the fruit was a nutty character too. Hazelnuts, perhaps, and they’re fractionally roasted to make them nice and oily. Fruit and nuts go so well together, it’s easy to overlook the fact that they’re BOTH there. Really, who thinks of nut aromatics from a liquid made from fermented grapes? It’s wild.
On the palate I found slightly unripe peaches, ditto nectarines, juuuuuust juicy enough. Oh, it’s just a great, subtle mouthful of wine, not too anything, not too little of anything else. Nothing one could identify as sweet, just delicious fruit, acids and secondary mineral notes. The latter are (as you’d expect) slate-y in character, but almost to the point of wanting to lick the rock. Think of rain on hot slate, it’s quite the evocative experience.
It’s worth quoting the producer’s own notes:
Crikey, that’s perfect. Irrepressible aroma…(that) exudes significant power and cool minerality.