Hands Chardonnay 2016

The opportunity for those of us who like chardonnay is enormous. Because so much of this grape is grown, niches of unknown production must exist in the same way that big cities hide little secrets – there’s room for subversion when there are lots of diversions.

So while everyone’s falling over each other for Burgundian anything, drooling over Margaret River and thinking of moving to Otago, you and I can sit back and turn our attention to South Africa. Although Cape Town is a kind of perennial long-distance destination for the glitterati, the really sexy stuff is happening in their wine business.

That line of thought’s for another time though, because what we have to hand here is an inexpensive beauty. Mildly oaked but still crisp, mid-ripe fruit that works in some green apple and pineapple notes and delicious zesty acids that resolve nicely. There’s even a nice mildly salty lick to let us know that two great oceans aren’t far away. Don’t tell anyone. This niche will be our secret.