Villa Cavarena Soave 2016

Okay, so gargenega won’t win any sexy grape type name competitions any time soon. When pronounced correctly it sound more like a throat clearing than the entree to a night of fun…but that might be a signal.

The signal I’m thinking of is that the ugly name means nothing. Just as we don’t taste the colour, neither do we imbibe the name; the only judgement that counts is the way the senses connect with the imagination.

Contemplating volcanic hills and a history dating to Roman times, plus the romanicism of Verona (I’m thinking Shakespeare) might be a better way to approach a soave. Mostly constructed from gargenega, this one is 20% chardonnay, which, along with verdicchio, is a customary blending grape. The combination is beguiling. Chardonnay brings with is a bag full of full-bodied fruit, contributing the ripe notes of fresh pineapple to the nose. Lemon oil and fresh almond meat spritzed with tangerine rind complete that picture.

All of that is carried to the palate; a luxurious kind of oily nut mouthfeel makes one stop for a moment, and for a moment I thought I saw a deep background minerality. The key here is the fleshy nut and fruit feel taming any over-zesty lemon-oil elements, which is a long way round of saying that all inputs balance well. No sharp edges here.

The finish is surprisingly long, with that tangerine pith leading to a kind of salty minerality. This bottle begs for big seafood; give it to her.