Leone D’Oro Vino Nobile Montepulciano 2011

Where were you in the (northern) summer of 2011?

Can you remember? Wine is a time capsule if you’re prepared to stretch the idea. Here’s a bottled message from – in this case – six years ago, a message encapsulating an agricultural moment in time.

Sangiovese is the bedrock of Italian reds, a position bolstered by the name of this wine, Vino Nobile. The name isn’t hyperbolic from either an historic or a wine-drinker’s point of view. From the off, I found a powerful dark fruit nose, hot fruit stew, new leather, dry rose petals  and mild licorice. Oh, and some vanilla.

Perhaps the way to think about this astonishing breadth of aromas is as vino bandwidth. You know, the volume of useful data available to the terminal (us) via the conduit (the glass) from the server (the bottle) thanks to the content provider (the winemaker).

Whatever. With air came a rounding of the tannins and a more savory herb character, including something I think was oregano.