Tierre di Talamo Vento Vermentino 2015

Grapes have many Kryptonites until they’re fermented and bottled. Wine, too has enemies, but only one frenemy: oxygen. Winemakers spend a lot of time preventing it from touching their wine once they’re done making it, but when you and I open the bottle, air is our friend.

When I opened this bottle of Italian white and poured a glass, the full-bodied nature of the beast was obvious. What happened next was a kind of wine disconnect, with a number of seemingly non-related qualities living in the same glass. It was a jumbled whole in the same way as a jigsaw picture puzzle; you know there’s a bigger concept, but only the pieces are visible.

Most notable was the bitter-ish finish. From the nose, a big-oil citrus melange of tangerine zest and pink grapefruit lived within a phenolic dormitory. That theme continued to the palate with the pith of various citrus fruits, unripe tangerine, sea salt and oceanic minerals. The finish was distinctive.

After 24 hours, an enormous change occurred. The nose took on an almost pineapple-y ripe fruit character, the mouthfeel was progressive from citrus fruit through minerals and a salty undertone to a lasting, clean, salty finish.