Mueller Bereich Bernkastel QbA 2015

Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete. This is the ground floor elevator stop for the delicious high-rise that is the Riesling Building. You know this landmark of Wine City. It stands majestic and slightly aloof, separate from all others, ancient as Rome, modern as tomorrow.


Prädikat wines – those of distinctive harvest-timed grapes – begin on the second or third floor, but let’s not dismiss the yeomen on the lowest level. Those in the basement, perhaps, but QbAs are a solid and sometimes spectacular success.

Here’s a wine that’s not spectacular, but it is a quality glass. Not a large punchy wine, all the volume knobs are set low, like a Gerry Rafferty number rather than those Led Zep rieslings. And like a Gerry Rafferty tune, the fact of lower volume means the nuances of the different instruments are more noticeable. That and the lovely harmonies, as well as the soulful sax solo.

All that translates to a muted nose and absolutely delicious fruit of lemony-lime, ginger, late harvest fruit late on the palate and a complete, short finish. It might not have the view of higher floors, but it sure has a great office.