Owl Ridge Hunted Zinfandel Lodi 2015

Ah, yes, there’s the dry licorice and grainy tannin feel so beloved of…well, me.

Funny to think how an easy to mock wine like red zinfandel continues to beguile a decent number of us. What shouldn’t surprise is the producer: Owl Ridge won’t garner you any brand-recognition points at the dinner table, but let ’em mock. We know better.

This nose is not of the cola variety, more reminiscent of brandy and marinated dark fruits. Hot, yes, but in a Christmas pudding kind of way, in which the baker was a little too liberal with the booze. Spice is here from the first swirl to the last swallow. Problem?

I didn’t think so. But there’s more here than a brooding high-alcohol baked fruit affair. As the label suggests, wisdom and thoughtful winemaking is evident, not least from the lightness of touch in the mouth. Big nose, sure, but the lasting tannins – read: long finish – are completely in balance with the acids, more so with air.

Beware someone swooping down to steal your glass.

$13.99