Quinta Do Vale Meao Meandro 2014

Good-bye Californian mystery blends, hello precision-driven Portuguese blends. From the bottle:

Touriga nacional (40%), touriga franca (30%), tinta roriz (20%), tinta barroca (5%), tinto cao (3%), sousao (2%).

Take that! And my answer is: Yes, please.

There came a point early on when I figured out how to describe this glass. Think of an Aston Martin, or one of those German luxo-sports numbers and translate that into red wine. They’re all refined, sleek, compact, fatless, focused, serious and likely will age beautifully. Who doesn’t look at a DB4 and not pause at the sheer harmony of the design?

A few points worth noting include the notable restrained nature of this wine. Vanilla and oak evidence along with big, dark fruit on the nose give a kind of restrained punch -like a fighter only giving it 20% until he’s sure he won’t hurt us.

In the mouth it feels like a kind of compressed spring. Dry, but not overwhelmingly, and completely in balance with the subtly handled acids, the impression is of that expensive sports car having so much capability and still happy idling around city streets.

Long, decadent, grippy tannins on the finish, creating the question: What will this be like in ten years? Or twenty?

$25.99