Tesoro della Regina Chianti Classico Riserva 2014

Little reflects the Byzantine complexity of Italian wine wonder better than Chianti. Maps of regions, DOCs, DOCGs, variations between towns, arguments over cultivation methods – it’s wonderful and chaotic.

And if that’s not a description of Italy worth keeping, I don’t know what is.

The bottle promises “…(a) balance between spicy and smooth with this harmonious estate-bottled…” beauty. That’s about right. My own notes mention sweet leather, earth, spice and dark fruit, but the overall impression is of drinkability.

Not to say there aren’t the characteristics folks like in a Riserva; fruit, devilish acids and the powdery tannins that go well with red food. Almost missing in this drive for fluidity is that ever-so-rough agricultural note reminding us of the humble path to making a wine from this region. Almost.