Santa Lucia Pinot Grigio Collio 2015

People in the know tell me this is a quality pinot grigio. I trust them.

Of special interest here is the distinctive color, much deeper than the run o’ the mill pinot grigio. That tells us about the winemaker’s goal, which is to move into the realms of complexity and fruit, rather than low cost and acid.

Clearly of bigger body than most, here’s a glass that I want to wow me, and still fails to do so. Sure, it’s completely competent and of sufficient complexity to be of interest, but it’s not anything that will make you take a deep breath and think big thoughts about life.

Sure, the solid characteristics are all there in style and substance, to wit: pears and ripe apples on the nose, smooth fruit and almond meat-like feel in the mouth, along with a lingering finish. So far, so much better than a (big) majority of her brethren, and by a decent margin.

Which leads me to think we’re running smack bang into the limits of the grape. The slightly waxy mouthfeel of a quality pinot grigio is certainly there, balanced by the roundness that is the distinctive edge of this specific glass. Acids, sure, but here they are only bit-players.

Conclusion: close to best of breed. Which means that the average pinot grigio drinker will either love or hate this thing.

$14.99

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